Jess on festival wear

Is festival fashion still a thing? It isn’t what it was (and praise be for that), but if there is one day a year when it is still relevant, then Glastonbury Saturday is surely that day. There really hasn’t been anything to say about festival fashion in forever, because it’s been hotpants plus wellies plus edgy top referencing either 70s boho or 90s rave, big earrings and a fringed cross-body bag. Kate Moss always wears something awesome, and everyone else spends the rest of the summer in less awesome versions of whatever Kate Moss wore, and that’s about all there is to it.
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But this summer, festival fashion finally has a new look, for the first time in about six years. I’m calling it summer gothic. (And before anybody starts writing in, I use the word gothic in the loosest sense and mean no offence to subcultures, living or dead.) Your fashion coordinates are as follows: it’s what boho would look like now, if it were designed by Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy and worn by Kendall Jenner. In other words, it has nothing to do with the Camden Market goth aesthetic and everything to do with Cara Delevingne in odd earrings and those tight side braids that look like an undercut.

Summer gothic makes no actual sense at all, because you can’t do goth in the sunshine. And the hoisted-on-to-boyfriend’s-shoulders, singing-along-to-the-chorus mode of festival girldom doesn’t have a lot of common ground with the Camden Market vibe. But then, hotpants and wellies make no sense, either. None of this matters. Nothing has to make sense at a festival. A touch of weirdness is right and proper. That’s pretty much the whole point.

Summer gothic can be black, in which case it should be semi-sheer rather than heavy. Or it could have a plunging neckline, or cutouts, if your abs can take it. Anything to lighten it up a bit, basically. But so fast and loose are we playing with the idea of gothic here that summer gothic also comes in white: try a lace dress with a high neck, and toughen it up by swapping ballet pumps for Converse. Or wellies, if you must.

• Jess wears dress, £250, karenmillen.com. Heels, £75, office.co.uk. Styling: Melanie Wilkinson. Hair and makeup: Laurence Close at Carol Hayes Management.